It's like Mardi Gras in New Orleans, but without the beads.
Carnival is an annual week-long celebration with fiestas and parades. The largest fiesta is the Saturday night before Ash Wednesday with music and dancing in the streets. One of the major streets in the center of Alicante is blocked off from traffic and people in every imaginable costume mingle.
The word "carnival" is said to be derived from the Latin "carne" meaning meat and "vale," meaning goodbye. In the past, the consumption of meat was forbidden during the 40 days of Lent.
The week before Carnival, I browsed the many elaborate costume stores in Alicante to find a disfraz (disguise). I discovered the demand and supply for adult-sized costumes is higher than for children. After looking at all of the possibilities, I decided to dress as a marinero (sailor).
Shortly after midnight I walked from my apartment in my white uniform to the street, Aveda Alfonso X El Sabio, where most people were gathered. A large stage with professional lighting and a complete band was set up at both ends of the street. The two stages were positioned far enough apart that the music from one stage didn't interfere with the other. Singers and dancers performed American and Spanish hits for the enthusiastic crowd.
Every generation takes part in the celebration of Carnival. Most people wear full costumes or masks. One part of Carnival I liked the most was seeing entire families out together and dressed in costumes. I saw young children wandering around even in the early hours of the morning as I walked through the streets brimming with party-goers.
A Spanish friend of mine who I met up with that night also dressed as a sailor. It was a real surprise to both of us because we hadn't coordinated it ahead of time. Along with a few of his friends, we visited a few bars and clubs. I had a lot of fun looking at all the interesting costumes people were wearing.
I was truly amazed at how many people were out that night. It felt like the entire city of Alicante was congregated in one small area. Some of the streets were so crowded that it was nearly impossible to pass through. All of the bars that I went into were so packed it was impossible to move.
Around 5 a.m., we all went to a discoteca and... well... danced (that's what people do at the disco). In addition to the regular operation of the discoteca, there was also a contest for the best costume with a large cash prize. I'll just say that my sailor costume wasn't as extreme as some of the costumes in the show. I left the discoteca at 8 in the morning when it closed and when I arrived home, slept well into the afternoon on Sunday.
Carnival will probably be one of my most memorable times in Alicante. Spain has a reputation for having better nightlife than any other country and Carnival is just one piece of evidence that shows why.
Benjamin Petell is a travel columnist for the Web Devil. Reach him at bejamin.petell@asu.edu.
