Down Apache Boulevard lies row after row of strip malls, each carrying many shops or restaurants of different cuisine for the students close to the east side of the Tempe campus to visit. Pizza, sandwich and Asian joints all line the street divided in two by the light rail, so there’s plenty of choices for the discerning foodie.
Look a little closer though, and you’ll see a small smattering of Middle Eastern restaurants within these malls. Move further up the street and you’ll come across a tall building dubbed Oasis, a new restaurant featuring dishes and pastries from the country of Yemen.
Founded only five months ago, Oasis marks the desire of owner Hussein Alhajjaji to bring food from his native Yemen to the busy streets of Tempe. According to manager Pamela Garcia, Alhajjaji had owned other businesses in the past, but was having his first go in the restaurant business here.
"He wants to bring the home (Yemen) experience to here in Arizona," Garcia said. "We have such a big Arab population, and so far it's working."
Around the spacious dining area, posters hang on the walls with images of the country. Across the way, a big screen TV showcased some quirky Middle Eastern music videos to set the mood. Hidden from plain sight was a seating area where guests would remove their shoes to hang out as they ate.
It was quiet for a Friday afternoon, at least when I walked in prior to a late lunch rush. I’m remiss in taking away the popularity of the place, as it currently boasts a four out of five star rating on Yelp as of this writing. Take-out orders were consistently in and out, and it was hard to find anyone without a smile on their face.
This was immediately apparent when I spoke with Garcia, who had been a part of Oasis since its inception. She didn’t mask her infectious enthusiasm about the wide spread of food the restaurant had on hand, and was quick to make recommendations – particularly for those that have never tried the cuisine before.
"We have baked chicken, which is baked for two hours and is half a chicken served over mundi, which is white rice and basmati rice mixed and seasoned with onion soup and Arabic seasonings," Garcia said.
Garcia went on to list choices that seemed endless including kabsa, a meat cooked with a tomato paste, then fahsa and salta, a pair of items that she was keen to point out.
"Fahsa is the local Yemeni dish," said Garcia. "It's braised lamb served in a skillet, as a lamb soup."
Salta, on the other hand, is made with all vegetables. The wide variances on Oasis' menu seemed to reflect Garcia's take on the local cuisine.
"I feel like everything in Arizona is very generic," she said. "When it comes down to Middle Eastern or anything like that, it's because they don't focus enough on it. And that is what we're trying to do."
On Garcia’s recommendation, I asked for the biryani with lamb, which was made with basmati rice and came with a salad sporting dressings of salsa and yogurt, which is less Dannon’s and more of a cream with herbs and spices.
It wasn’t more than 10 minutes later that I was able to dig into the big plate of rice and lamb. Garcia explained that the lamb was buried underneath the rice so it could absorb any flavors that seeped through, and it worked. Supported by the flavors of the rice, the lamb was juicy and fell off the bone easily, which inspired further digging for more.
Don't say I didn't warn you.
#oasistempe @statepress pic.twitter.com/QlOT9R8lUQ
— Damion Julien-Rohman (@legendpenguin) September 11, 2015
The basmati rice coupled with the lamb well, with spices on each bite presenting a whole lot of flavors as I ate. I couldn’t get enough of it, which worked out well — there was enough left over for me to take home as I felt myself getting full from the dish. Too full, in fact, to try one of the baklavas from the bakery — those would wait until next time.
If you're hesitant to try the cuisine of the Middle East, or if you're looking for something new, Oasis is definitely a place to visit. A sprawling menu and friendly staff are the main draws, and if you need a suggestion — talk to Garcia, or just pick the Biryani. You might not regret it.
Related links:
Nush creates successful ethnic fusion through food and atmosphere
'Great Southwest Cajun Festival' brought seafood and jazz to downtown Phoenix
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